Malila

Malila

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Holiday Hike in Dogon Country

The landscape was breathtakingly beautifully. Mainly because we were all out of breath by the time we reached the peak of each cliff due to our guides incredible long legs and ability to climb at an alarming rate in flip-flops that were two sizes too small. I began my hoilday season by spending a few nights in Bamako to get checked out by the medical staff and relax, unfortunately because I stayed in Bamako immediately after Peace Corps training I did not get the free transport to Sevare, to make my travels a little easier. On my own I managed fine though and got out of Bamako in time to meet up with volunteers in Sevare the night before we were to travel to Bandiagara to get ready for our Holiday Hike. On the 24th we began our journey with our guide Mamadou.

Group 1 Day 1


Climbing rocks to get a bird's eye view of the village
Morning of day 1 we hiked about 11 km and breaked for lunch and a nap in a small village. After the heat of the day wore off we explored parts of the town and meandered our way across a mountain to make it to the village we were to stay for the night. That night we met the dugutigi (village chief) and as a gift gave him kola nuts and tea. After dinner he organized an impromptu dance performance which was very entertaining, but we were all extremely tired. They prepared the dance floor by watering the ground, to prevent the dust from rising everywhere from their quick dance movements. They move their feet in very quick movements and slightly bend down swaying their arms moving to the beat of the drums. The men and women dance in slightly different styles. I wish it wasn't so dark otherwise I would have recorded some of the dances. We saw the moon rise and slept on the roof of some huts under some mosquito nets they provided and a mattress. It was a little cold the first night, but not as cold as the next. Day 1= 14km
Animism~Christianity~Islam
Each rock represents a religious practice in the village
The next morning we were served pate (malian fried dough) and bread with jam and the choice of tea or instant coffee. Then we set out around 8 am for a 10 km hike to our lunch destination in Tele. Our guide said it was going to be a flat hike today. It was flat, but very sandy. I think we enjoyed the up and down more than walking in sand for 4 hours. The village Tele was awesome after an amazing grilled chicken lunch and nap we hiked up into the cliff dwellings. Our guide told us Dogon people settled there 4 centuries before Christ.



It was incredible to climb through the remains of a village resting on the side of a cliff. They were very ingenious architects, I tried to imagine an ordinary day living in the mountain climbing across or around houses to see a friend, or playing a game of hide-and-seek in all the small spaces between the mountain and mud buildings. We then left that site to walk another 4 km in sand to reach a fellow PCVs village to enjoy a shower and christmas dinner with a big group of volunteers. The village knew we were coming ahead of time so they put together a play to present after our dinner. This night we were given only mattresses on the roof and it was really really cold. Another volunteer and I kept waking in the middle of the night asking eachother if they were still freezing wondering why they didn't give us more blankets. So we shared a mattress and sandwiched ourselves between the other mattress, still cold, but could sleep more than 20 minutes at a time.

The next day we had an even bigger breakfast than the day before, because the volunteer at the site made special requests. We got to choose from rice cereal, moni (mali millet porridge), bread & jam, and tea or coffee. We only had 6 km left before the end of our tour through Dogon and our last village stop was Djiguibombo. I was very happy with my decision to go to on the hike for Christmas. I did not have time to travel to Djenne or Mopti, but there is always next year.

2011 is days away. I have yet to think of a New Years resolution, so I will brainstorm ideas. What is your New Year's resolution?
I went into town this morning to go to the bank and post office. I finally got to send out postcards I've been carrying with me for two weeks. I also received a package from a good friend (Thank you a bunch Nancy). I am going back to site tomorrow, excited to celebrate the New Year with my new home in village. Although I miss home very much and listened to the voice messages of the Christmas calls I received from family while waiting in the bank. I totally cried, because I love my family and want to squeeze them like a tube of toothpaste. Happy New Year!!!

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