How do you describe 20 months of Peace Corps Mali? It was the greatest adventure of my life. I took a leap, leaving everything I had in the states to find a new home in West Africa. The greatest thing about it all was that I found my second home.  I tried to balance both and leave one to visit the other; I now cannot return to Mali to finish my service and life that I began there. Due to the unfortunate circumstances in Mali, Peace Corps decided to evacuate its 180+ volunteers from Mali and temporarily close its program. I was already in California when I got the call. But after reading the news daily since the coup, I had a feeling Peace Corps Mali would not be able to operate effectively and safely. Now I am back home, finishing my "vacation", with loving family and friends. But to all my family and friends I met in Mali, we will see each other again! Ala ka san here caya!

http://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=resources.media.press.view&news_id=1998

I'm a refugee

I leave Mali for a vacation and then there is a coup, fortunately a bloodless one.
NY Times "...uncertain grasp on power"
NY Times "Soldiers overthrow Mali government..."
CNN article "Renegade Mali Soldiers..."
NYtimes "Soldiers declare coup in Mali"
"Yahoo "Soldiers loot Mali presidency..."
I have received several emergency messages from the U.S. Embassy as well as messages from the Peace Corps Country Director continuously updating us on the current situation as further information is released.
It is really surreal. I was just in Mali a little over a week ago and never expected this could happen. A friend left Mali a day before me; he sent an e-mail informing me that we are both currently refugees. I guess he's right, my home is in Mali right now and I am just on vacation.
Keep Mali in your prayers. I hope this situation settles down soon and hope everyone is safe.
Ala ka Mali denw ani Ameriki denw kolosi. May God take care/watch over Malians and Americans.

"Operation Jacquely is a success!"

I am back in America!

My Beautiful Family
Ne Somogow Tie kaŋi det!
Mi Familia, Qué hermoso!

I've killed a snake, let's eat it

I ate snake meat. It was over salted, but it was not bad. Kind of like eating fish, because I had to be careful of the bones. Which my friend kept telling me how dangerous they are and that is why kids do not eat snake and one of the reasons many adults are afraid to, on top of their fear for living snakes, which is great. It was hilarious right after dinner and tea I went to my homologues house and after greeting her and asking about the fam; I blurted out “I ate snake meat for dinner!” We laughed together about that and the fact that I seemed so proud to have done so, she told me she never had snake before. It was a great end to my day of reading and playing with baby Amneta. I received a text message around 4 pm; “I’VE KILLED A SNAKE I’LL BE HOME AT HALF PAST 17”. Yes he can speak English and always types his messages in CAPS, my reply; “Ok cool, I’ll come over to check it out when you get home”. He knows I used to work with kids and show them live animals like snakes and birds; so I figured he just wanted to show me his kill and hold it like I did when a man was walking around my village with a live python. He is too sweet though; he invited me to eat the snake with him, because I told him I would like to try it one day. So now I can say I’ve eaten bugs, pigeon, and snake while in Mali. What next? He tells me dog meat is good for you and that cat tastes very good.

He went hunting in the bush to look for rabbits. Unfortunately, the rabbit hunt was unsuccessful. He did come upon a snake so he shot it, cut it and cleaned it and drove the 27 kilometers back to our village. Sometime in the next few months I think I’m going to make a hunting trip to, but instead of a gun I’ll use a sling shot. : )

Good eats!

The sweet smell of tea

It’s a waft of cotton candy should you be napping while the “Mali” thé is brewing*. Malians love their tea with sugar or sugar with their tea, after it has been brewed for over 30 minutes and the water starts to evaporate they pour in the sugar. It is an art to watch; many are prided on how much foam they can make in the glass when its served. You have to be skilled and have callused hands because its HOT to the touch. Burning coals, metal teapot, and tea served in glass shot glasses. It's hot stuff.

Tea is a big deal. I remember during home-stay (the training period in which Peace Corps leaves us with a Malian host family, days after we arrive in country) my host family would watch a soap opera that centered around one guy making tea through out the day. Scene never changed, people just came and went drinking tea. On transport you can still expect a shot of tea, either they brew it on the bus which is rare, but I’ve seen it or there are tea vendors at different stops.

PCV Geoff in good pour form

Also there are different brands and qualities, every Malian has their go to brand of tea, though its all imported from China and its all loose leaf green tea. The first round is the premiere, the strongest most bitter or most syrupy depending upon the amount of sugar added (that‘s when you get the faux cotton candy smell). When I first came to Mali drinking the first round, premiere, would give me headaches. I didn’t drink coffee or caffeinated beverages on the regular so it was quite a shock to my system. But I didn’t want to refuse so I took tea with my host family and again when visiting other trainees hanging out with their host families. The second round, deuxieme, less strong and my preffered choice. I now request the second round and usually pass on the first. And lastly there is occasionally a third round if time permits and people are willing to brew it, probably the equivalent of a green tea bag brew with slightly more sugar added than is needed.

I ni baradji. Thanks for the tea.

somewhere out there a man is selling tea... i just know it

*Tea in Mali Verte de Chine

What Peace Corps Mali volunteers say and do...

Eh! Allah!
Everything is delicious. Not tasty, good, but a lot of times things make the amazing list. "This is delicious!" O my gosh, I had brunch there and it was amazing!" "Wow this is delicious. How did you make this?"

We text other Peace Corps volunteers when we have to wait over 2-3 hours for transport.

We one-up others on transport horror stories. The bus was full, but we kept pulling over to pick up more people. There are so many speed bumps on the newly paved road it still takes three hours to get out of my site. The roof of the van had a lot of holes, sheep were tied to the roof and pee dripped down on me through out the ride. The sheep beneath me keep fidgeting and poking me with their horns. Eww why is it wet under my seat? The kid next to me threw up. The kid on my lap peed. The kid next to me had terrible diarhhea and I couldn't breath. The van broke down, we waited on the side of the road for 4 hours. We got a flat tire and had to wait for a spare. It is raining sideways and this van doesn't have a real window. I don't have reception to call someone to complain. AHHH! I've been waiting for 3 hours and the guys keeps saying we are leaving sooni (soon) or sisan sisan (now now)!

In the market we try our very best not to get cheated. We are embarassed to tell other Peace Corps volunteers what we paid for a broom in fear that we were overcharged by 50 cents. Everything we say is expressed with emphasis! Good Morning! How is your FAMILY? Sleep well? How much is this? Two dollars. Eh! O ka CA! A BARIKA! (what! that is too much! Reduce your price!)
We have no shame in calling people bean eaters, referring to their family members as donkeys, telling them they are not real people; in hopes to resolve a conflict, get a better deal on a cab fare, or spark a conversation. Ex: Bar tab comes back and volunteers are overcharged by 3 large beers. Argument ensues. The situation is diffused, because they find out the bar tender is a Coulibaly (common last name everyone can joke with) so he obviously is not smart enough to count and speaks a donkey language. No more problems, basi te.

Every regional capitol house has one show that everyone is addicted to watching and someone is always waiting for a new season to download.

Volunteers have tried many things to get flies out of their nyegens, but there is no permanent solution.

"What was the first thing you ate when you went back to America?" Most popular question asked by PCVs when a volunteer returns from vacation in the states.

Everything is better when cheese is involved.

Ring ring...ring ring..... "Ha-lo, ha-lo. jon don?"..... "Eh n balima ke! i ka kene wa?"......."O ayiwa, d'accord"....."d'accord"........ "Owo!"........."K'an ben."......."Amiina"...."amiina amiina"...."Ka tile here."

There is much more to add, but I do not have the time at the moment. K'an ben sooni.